CV joint (and possible axle) replacement

[slacker]

OK so I just got my new outer CV joints delivered a couple days ago and the weather was FINALLY pretty nice yesterday after a few days of heavy rain.. I got out to work on the car around 4:00PM and put everything back together after 4 hours when it was getting dark..

..I still have my new CV joints and boots sealed in box I got the passenger's side axle nut, rotor, and caliper off (I was thinking I would just take stuff apart and figure out one way or the other how to get the CV joint off..) Well, soon enough I came to realize I didn't need to remove the rotor and the caliper off. Then I tried to get the lower control arm off the steering knuckle.. I used a hammer with a block of wood, a jack, and a breaker bar after I got the nut off.. Nothing worked..

So my questions are:

*How should I go with getting the lower ball joint off?
*What else should I do in order to get the outer CV joint off?
*Is the inner joint bad, too, if I can slide the axle back and forth in between the joints?
*How do I get the inner joint to pop out of the trans if it's bad?

P.S. I'm working with auto trans.

I searched through 37245234572 threads but couldn't find clear answers. Thanks all in advance!

[Civic Accord Honda]

use a pitman arm puller for the ball joint
looks like this
http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/pa80.jpg


and please REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL!!! i just learned that if u pull the axle and dont replace it your trans will leak like mad

also if there is any play in the ball joint its bad
and use a scerw driver or crow bar to pop the axle out of the trans

[slacker]

use a pitman arm puller for the ball joint
looks like this
http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/pa80.jpg


and please REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL!!! i just learned that if u pull the axle and dont replace it your trans will leak like mad

also if there is any play in the ball joint its bad
and use a scerw driver or crow bar to pop the axle out of the trans

sweet. i just hope that inner joint is fine so i don't have to pull that axle...

off topic but i figured it's not worth making a new thread for.. i'm also thinking about getting some mobil 1 oil filters. i found an M1-108 on ebay for pretty cheap. would this fit our 3geez?

[mephi]

Why didn't you just buy whole axles? Makes the job way easier, especially if you don't have the boot band tool. It's only $60 plus core for the long axle out here.

if the inner cv joint slides in and out, that's toward and away from the transmission, that is ok. What you don't want is sever looseness radially or rotationally. The inner CV joint is more of a slip joint and is made to have some in and out movement. Usually you'll get some noise and other weird problems under load or at extreme suspension angles when the inner CV joint goes.

The problem with removing the inner shaft and not replacing the seal will only happen if you brush the seal with the splines and tear it on the way out. If you have never done this before you probably will. It really isn't a bad idea to replace the seal anyway and fix an issue before it happens.


Oh...and don't use friggin' zip ties to put the new CV boot back together!!!!! Use the metal bands!

[DBMaster]

and please REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL!!! i just learned that if u pull the axle and dont replace it your trans will leak like mads

I replaced my passenger side axle shaft about six weeks ago and did not replace the seal. It is not leaking at all.

[slacker]

Why didn't you just buy whole axles? Makes the job way easier, especially if you don't have the boot band tool. It's only $60 plus core for the long axle out here.

if the inner cv joint slides in and out, that's toward and away from the transmission, that is ok. What you don't want is sever looseness radially or rotationally. The inner CV joint is more of a slip joint and is made to have some in and out movement. Usually you'll get some noise and other weird problems under load or at extreme suspension angles when the inner CV joint goes.

The problem with removing the inner shaft and not replacing the seal will only happen if you brush the seal with the splines and tear it on the way out. If you have never done this before you probably will. It really isn't a bad idea to replace the seal anyway and fix an issue before it happens.


Oh...and don't use friggin' zip ties to put the new CV boot back together!!!!! Use the metal bands!

Thanks for the info, mephi. Here is what I have done today with my limited knowledge.. I went and bought a splitter fork to get the lower ball joint off as I couldn't find a pitman arm remover. Some grease was squeezed out of the ball joint boot as I was putting force on the ball joint with the fork. I got the ball joint off, got the CV joint off the knuckle, but couldn't get the joint off the axle. So I ripped the whole axle off (with the splitter fork) and I do not know if I damaged the seal. I put the fork where the axle connects the trans and pulled it towards me. The axle came right out. So now I have the axle in my living room and I'm thinking if I damaged anything during the process and if I should get a whole new axle. But if my inner CV joint is OK, I will put the outer joint on the axle and throw it back on the car tomorrow.

Now.. What I don't get is.. Trans fluid went all over as soon as I pulled the axle out.. I've read some threads here before I pulled the axle and many people said this wouldn't happen Did I mess something up? Also, how do I put the axle back in the trans? Just force it back in?

Sorry for the long post guys and thanks!

[Dr_Snooz]

Wow. You are definitely doing this one the hard way. Send those outer joints back and just buy the whole axles. Pulling axles apart is a massive mess, a big waste of time and saves you no money.

You don't have to replace the trans seals, but you probably should after prying against them with the pickle fork.

I would avoid that pickle fork entirely, especially on the lower ball joint. It tore open your boot so now the grease will leave and the road grim enter. You will get to tear the entire front end apart shortly after getting it back together to replace them. You will also need to find a good machine shop to press the old ball joints out and the new ones in. If you think getting the axles out is work, you're going to love pulling the knuckles.

[DBMaster]

I agree. I picked up a brand new, not rebuilt, axle shaft at O'Reilly's for $70. It has a lifetime warranty, but I hope it goes at least as long as the ones I have had on there. They seem to go about 100K miles before the outer boots start tearing open. So, if I still have the car at 400K miles the next replacement part will be free.

As far as the fluid spillage goes I think you either had the transmission overfilled, or maybe the thing was leaning a bit toward the side you were working on. The axle should snap back in, though, it does take a good bit of force. I tapped mine on the end a bit with a hammer - not too hard!

[Civic Accord Honda]

I replaced my passenger side axle shaft about six weeks ago and did not replace the seal. It is not leaking at all.

its $7 and worth it because if it does end up leaking you have to take it all apart again to change it.

[MessyHonda]

yeah for me it was cheaper to buy new ones...i bought new ones cheaper than the rebuilt ones...napa parts FTW

[slacker]

Wow. You are definitely doing this one the hard way. Send those outer joints back and just buy the whole axles. Pulling axles apart is a massive mess, a big waste of time and saves you no money.

I see exactly what you mean.. Not a good experience.. I wish I would've just replaced the axles. Too late to send the joints back though..

You don't have to replace the trans seals, but you probably should after prying against them with the pickle fork.

Will do.

I would avoid that pickle fork entirely, especially on the lower ball joint. It tore open your boot so now the grease will leave and the road grim enter. You will get to tear the entire front end apart shortly after getting it back together to replace them. You will also need to find a good machine shop to press the old ball joints out and the new ones in. If you think getting the axles out is work, you're going to love pulling the knuckles.

Yup, I will go with a pitman arm remover the next time.. I don't see a tear on the ball joint boot but I will definitely keep an eye on it.

Thanks everyone for all the responses. My hatch is still sitting in the lot with a missing axle as I can't get the outer CV joint off the axle.. I've heard it should come out if I tap it a little. I went from slightly tapping it to beating the grease out of it.. I know there is a little clip that goes on the axle to hold the CV joint in place. But I can't do much since the CV joint is currently covering it. As much as I would love to, I can't go with complete axles as I've spend about $200 so far on my 4 CV joints and tools.

Is there any other way to get the CV joint off of the axle? Thanks guys.

[slacker]

As far as the fluid spillage goes I think you either had the transmission overfilled, or maybe the thing was leaning a bit toward the side you were working on. The axle should snap back in, though, it does take a good bit of force. I tapped mine on the end a bit with a hammer - not too hard!

The weird thing is that the car was leaning toward the opposite side and it didn't seem like it was the overfilled fluid. It seemed like the whole trans was flushed out. I needed 2 sweaters to dry the asphalt..

[LX-incredible]

Is there any other way to get the CV joint off of the axle? Thanks guys.

Slide hammer with an axle nut welded to it.

I can change out one of our outer joints in 20-30 min. I bought like 80 off ebay a while back. So much easier to use a new joint then cleaning and hoping the old one isn't fucked. No noise like the chinese crap or "rebuilt" axles either.

[Dr_Snooz]

I needed 2 sweaters to dry the asphalt..

You're going to need a lot of Tide for that.

[russiankid]

The seal won't leak unless you screw it up when getting the axle out.

[slacker]

You're going to need a lot of Tide for that.

Yea I just threw them out. I couldn't risk getting the rest of my laundry smell like old trans.

[slacker]

Slide hammer with an axle nut welded to it.

I feel stupid.

[Dr_Snooz]

Don't feel bad. We've all struggled. The trick is to get smarter each time.

[A20A1]

its $7 and worth it because if it does end up leaking you have to take it all apart again to change it.

I agree, It's a cheap part that has a chance of leaking and considering you're not replacing axles or CV boots everyday, you might as well replace what you can while the axle is out.