Timing belt replacement

[russiankid]

I have searched and I have not found the answer. I know how to replace the timing belt except for one thing. After setting the block to TDC and the head to TDC (which will be done with the old belt still on), how should I go about slipping the new belt on? Is it just straight forward slipping the new belt on, or is there a specific way of aligning the teeth according to the old belt's teeth placement?

Or am I just making this harder then it seems? I am guessing it doesn't matter as long as everything is TDC, but I just want to be sure.

[Pico]

when I redid mine I just slipped the belts off and on, just like you posted making sure the engine was at TDC

[BITESIZE]

The belt should slip right on, then you let the tensioner tighten it for you.

[russiankid]

Alright that makes sense. I also reread the How To on this and the little counting trick seems to make more sense now. I wish I didn't have to do this, but the stupid tensioner took a huge poop!

[russiankid]

Another question. Will I have to redo the tension as the belt will stretch later on?

[Pico]

i dont think so I never readjusted mine on the old engine and on the new engine.
Hopefully someone will correct me if im wrong on this

[BITESIZE]

Timing belts are designed and made to not stretch at all. They have zillions of stitches inside of the rubber.

[russiankid]

Timing belts are designed and made to not stretch at all. They have zillions of stitches inside of the rubber.

That is good to know! Thanks guys, car should be back up and running next weekend!

[Civic Accord Honda]

take pics of the progress

[russiankid]

take pics of the progress

If I remember, it's nothing special.

[Blkblurr]

Don't you have to keep the side of the belt that does not have the tensioner tight? This way you won't be a tooth off. Also, the tensioner is spring loaded so if the belt stretches, the tensioner takes up the extra length.

[russiankid]

Don't you have to keep the side of the belt that does not have the tensioner tight? This way you won't be a tooth off. Also, the tensioner is spring loaded so if the belt stretches, the tensioner takes up the extra length.

Well I just found out that I am off a tooth on the timing. The cam gear is aligned with the UP mark and the studs, but the flywheel T mark is off a by one line.

[evil88accordLX]

you can make dots on the gear and belt with white paint. once you take the belt off, copy the dots to the new belt and line the dots on the belt back up with the ones on the gears. that way you know you are exact, no matter if you are at TDC or not.

[russiankid]

you can make dots on the gear and belt with white paint. once you take the belt off, copy the dots to the new belt and line the dots on the belt back up with the ones on the gears. that way you know you are exact, no matter if you are at TDC or not.

I did that, but the flywheel is off by two lines. Which means it is probably off one or two teeth on the cam gear.

[Dr_Snooz]

Maybe I just struggle more when I work on my car, but I've found that there is a knack to getting the belt on properly and without undue struggle. It's best to thread the belt over every pulley, tensioner, etc. leaving the cam pulley (on top where you can get the most leverage) for last. For the cam pulley, start on the side opposite the tensioner and pull the belt tight. Pull just enough to take the slack out of it; not too tight or you'll pull the crankshaft off TDC. Starting from the front, set your first belt tooth on the cam pulley, making sure you aren't leaving a lot of slack between the cam and crank pulleys. Proceed to the next tooth, using your fingers to lift the next section of belt up and onto the cam pulley. Slowly, you'll walk the belt over the top of the pulley and you should be golden. Don't start on the tensioner side, or you'll end up with a lot of slop on the drive side and your timing will be off by miles.

Hope that makes sense.

[russiankid]

Alright an update. I got the belt and tensioner, put everything on. Runs great no problems, smooth idle. The only concern I have is that I can push the belt(non tensioner side) in about 4-8mm. Is this normal? It doesn't seem like the belt will skip a tooth or anything. When at higher rpm's, I can see the belt vibrating(non tensioner side), is that normal as well?

[Oldblueaccord]

I run mine tight enuff so you don't see that but it is prolly considered over tighten by most. Glad is running good.



wp

[russiankid]

I run mine tight enuff so you don't see that but it is prolly considered over tighten by most. Glad is running good.



wp

How do you get it that tight? Should I worry about this?

[Hauntd ca3]

the non tensioned side should be taught
just had a 5g wagon in that the guy done his own belt and it was a bit slack on the tensioner side
the belt slipped half a rev and bent all the valves
download the work shop manual and that should set you straight

[russiankid]

the non tensioned side should be taught
just had a 5g wagon in that the guy done his own belt and it was a bit slack on the tensioner side
the belt slipped half a rev and bent all the valves
download the work shop manual and that should set you straight

It is tight on the tensioner side, and taught on the non tensioner side.

[Oldblueaccord]

I think your OK with it. if you did roll it back 3 teeth and tighten the adjuster then your fine.

For me it makes that anoying clack,clack of the motor pinging when your on the gas and shifting real quick.



wp

[russiankid]

Well I checked the belt today and it seems to be the same way as the old one. I will keep and eye on it and readjust the tension if needed. Thanks for the input!

[russiankid]

Alright pics of the tension:
Here is the original state:

Here is when I put slight pressure:

And here is where I apply good amount of pressure:

[headbanger]

im also doing timing belt on my dx and i think im a tooth or 2 off ill get back on it tomorrow i guess.If i dont take a break im going to break something.LOL. glad urz is running good though.

[88Accord-DX]

Doing timing belts, I like to use a paint marker and put a dot at certain points before I remove it, so after the new one is on. I can look to see if they still are copesthetic. I never liked that 3 tooth rule & never go by it. (which applies with a few other engines)
With these cars, probably the hardest part is breaking loose that freaking crankshaft bolt. I recommend anytime you replace the timing belt, the tensioner needs to be replaced. Here is a pic I have of the timing belt.