Wet Brake Booster

[bushbean]

The bottom of the brake booster is wet with brake fluid. I guess there is a slow leak. Where is the leak likely to be coming from? Is it hard to fix?

I ask because if the job is difficult to do, I'll just leave it be since I'm thinking about selling the car soon.

[forrest89sei]

Sounds like a master Cylinder Piston Seal

[jenkinsauto]

sounds like a master cylinder to me just replace it and bleed the brakes.

[bushbean]

Number 8? Is it easy to replace?

[forrest89sei]

Number 8? Is it easy to replace?

Correct Sir

Is the pedal totally Firm?

[MessyHonda]

i just replaced that part in my car...only took like 30 mins...my pedal would go to the floor in a stop....also make sure to use some brake clean because brake fulid will damage the paint that protects the booster.

[Oldblueaccord]

Any one got that seal part number?

I need to do mine its starting to leak to much to be practiacal and its gets on the LCA bushings as well. I just really want to keep my MC since it works well and hate to risk a replacement.


wp

[forrest89sei]

Any one got that seal part number?

I need to do mine its starting to leak to much to be practiacal and its gets on the LCA bushings as well. I just really want to keep my MC since it works well and hate to risk a replacement.


wp

#8 is 46185-SE0-003 It's like $3

[bushbean]

Is #8 a dealer-only part?

[Ichiban]

Chances are the piston is too scored up to work properly with a new seal anyways, just garbage it in favor of a rebuilt unit.

[bushbean]

Correct Sir

Is the pedal totally Firm?

Yes.

[bushbean]

Chances are the piston is too scored up to work properly with a new seal anyways, just garbage it in favor of a rebuilt unit.

There is a bunch of 3geez Accord at the local junkyard. Should I pull one from there?

[Ichiban]

There is a bunch of 3geez Accord at the local junkyard. Should I pull one from there?

You could try, but I wouldn't expect much. When it comes to brake system components, I just go to the parts store and say "gimme". A new rebuild master cylinder shouldn't be more than 100 bucks from any parts store. Just make sure when you get it, take it out of the box before you pay and check the threads for the two lines. A lot of the time the threads are trashed and the rebuilders don't catch it for some reason.

Oh, and read this: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...t=64058&page=3

and;

Here is how I diagnose brakes:

Problem: Soft pedal.

1. Check master cylinder brake fluid level

Solution: Obvious. Bleed brakes afterwards.

2. Check for leaks, broken/bulging lines or wet areas. Remove wheels/drums and check wheel cylinders for leaks.

Solution: Replace affected part. Bleed your brakes.

3. Pump brake pedal rapidly. Check to see if it builds pressure.

Solution:

If pumping the pedal builds brake pressure (the pedal gets hard), the most likely situation is air. Bleed your brakes. If this doesn't solve the problem, another issue may be poorly adjusted drum brakes. In this case, pumping the pedal is necessary to take up the drum/shoe clearance before the brakes apply. After the brakes are released, return springs force the shoes back to their original position, creating excessive clearance again. Since your E-brake works, this is probably not your problem.

If pumping the pedal DOES NOT build brake pressure, you either; have an external leak (see number 2 above), or you have an internal leak in the master cylinder, or a faulty rear seal on the master cylinder allowing brake fluid into the booster. Remove/replace the master cylinder and bleed your brakes. If a failed rear seal has filled the booster with brake fluid, you "should" replace the booster. At least suction the fluid out. Also, black fluid and chunks of seal material in the reservoir indicate piston cups are in bad shape. Even if brake fluid isn't leaking out of the master cylinder, pressure can bypass the seals and return to the reservoir, instead of going to your brakes like it should.

4. Perform a brake function test. Road test the vehicle in a safe area.

I can also give you detailed instructions on how to properly and easily bleed your brakes if you want. It's simple, but if you do it wrong it'll become a major headache.

Good luck.

[bushbean]

Local parts store wants $90 for a rebuilt master cylinder. Rockauto.com has a rebuild-kit, which consists of the primary and secondary pistons and a seal, for $20. I'm kinda broke. Does anyone object to the $20 kit?

[Dr_Snooz]

Unless you have reason to believe it's more badly damaged than that, give it a go. Just check all the wear spots indicated in the MC overhaul section of the Honda manual and you should be good.

[Oldblueaccord]

Dorman #M39779 list as $37.79. That might be worth trying a few to get a good one. The nissan is like $57.99 i think thats the stock part maker anyway.


I dunno when I looked last year I was getting prices around 200$ so maybe is the time to buy. I know on my IH scout the MC where always high and then one day they had them at 16$ so I bought 3.

I still think I might try the seal if I can get it just to see how hard it is to do one the car.



wp

[bushbean]

I replaced the master cylinder with a brand new Nissin unit. It cost only forty bucks, and it even came with the reservoir bottle. I thought this is super cheap. I'm pretty satisfied. I hope Nissin is a reliable parts maker.

[Oldblueaccord]

I ordered the seal 4/11. Its actually on back order currently but only after I called them and asked about its where abouts. SOmething about the dealership on this side of town I dunno.


And you bought yours where ? 40$ is a great price the dealership here was 199$.



wp

[MessyHonda]

the one i took off my car said nissin...and the one i replaced it with said the same thing too.....40 bucks is not a bad price...mine was like 30 bucks with my friends discount

[lostforawhile]

Any one got that seal part number?

I need to do mine its starting to leak to much to be practiacal and its gets on the LCA bushings as well. I just really want to keep my MC since it works well and hate to risk a replacement.


wp

just get a rebuilt master,don't screw with it. they aren't that expensive. not good to be messing with the internal parts on it when you can just get the entire thing. the most common leak is that rear main goes then your brake fluid runs into the booster. if it's leaking replace the thing before it fails all the way and you have no pedal one day. also don't leave it for the guy who's buying the car, what if he pulls out and his brakes fail and he dies?

[bushbean]

Part #8 above is just a grease seal. I definitely needed the entire master cylinder replaced. I got the Nissin unit from Rockauto(dot)com. I've ordered alot of parts from them since three years ago. They've never let me down.

I ordered the seal 4/11. Its actually on back order currently but only after I called them and asked about its where abouts. SOmething about the dealership on this side of town I dunno.


And you bought yours where ? 40$ is a great price the dealership here was 199$.



wp

[Ichiban]

Good call. With brake master cylinders it's best to go new.

[Oldblueaccord]

Part #8 above is just a grease seal. I definitely needed the entire master cylinder replaced. I got the Nissin unit from Rockauto(dot)com. I've ordered alot of parts from them since three years ago. They've never let me down.

Welp, recieved seal, I put it in yestersday well see what happens Like said its just like dust seal there no wire spring or any thing. I think its just to keep dirt out etc. I dont think fluid should be at that point.


wp

[Oldblueaccord]

Well it started leaking so I put that one I got from Rockauto. Snapped a couple of pictures. I ended up making lines to bleed it since i could not find my bleeder kit anywhere and there not sold around here much.