What is the best car alarm, price not a factor right now. Its nto for the 3g, but for the skyline. The day it arrives its getting the best car alarm out there installed. I also want something with a camera preferably, proximity sensor etc.
I'm not up to date with alarms, I had one in the sunfire, but it was cheap and crappy. Any recommendations?
It depends on what you want it to do there is a lot good alarms out there.So what do you want it to do for you .There is Code Alarm and Audiovox by the audiovox owns Code Alarm then there is D.E.I which is Viper/Cliford/Python/Valet/Avital/Sidewinder/Wasp/Hornet/Rattler which ok but i dont recommend.I would stick with Audiovox better warrenty and customer support on there Alarms .I been a installer for Audio/Video/Security forthe last 16years i used all of these alarms the audiovox is the only one i had the lest issuse with.So it up to you what you want to Buy.
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
Personally I think the compustar 2-ways are some of the best out there... I love mine, and know many people who use them, the range is awesome, and tilt, proximity sensors, etc... even if you have to get them from DEI can be used with the compustar.
But an alarm will only work as well as it is installed, you have to find a good installer or no matter how amazing the alarm itself is, it won't work worth a damn.
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
Sounds good man
Additional Info
Some parts of it are MR2 specific, but he has some good ideas that would apply to most cars in addition to the alarm as well as things that might apply to the installation of the system. Hope it helps.
Four cars (and one motorcycle) in three years and not one with a cupholder...this is the story of my life.
Bah sign ups, can you quote the info on here?
I still cant find anything good, I saw a video of this Asianwolf 8000rs. Apparently it retails for 700 or so, on sale for 150??? I donno.
It looks good from the video I saw, but its probably cheap.
Any specific recommendations? For the skyline remember
whoops, here ya go.
originally posted by davidchau of MR2OC.com
Winter is here and its getting dark around 5pm here in Philadelphia, so car thieves come out earlier.
Here are some of the methods I use when installing a alarm on custom cars or my own car. I installed car alarms for 3 years during High School, have a Master MECP from Mobile Dynamics and I live in Center City Philadelphia and have seen many theft recovers, many of my customers already had alarms (installed at a local "alarm shop" and not by me) and their car was still stolen.
I thought of many ways of protecting a car under attack. Since growing up in the city, many of my friends where car thieves themselves and even they had me install their alarms. Having friends as car thieves back in high school taught me how car thieves really think and how to protect and slow them down. Any place can install your alarm, its easy to connect wires and make them chirp and blink, but I don't think its really going to protect your car under a full blown attack. In the years I did install alarms only 4 cars out of about 120 alarms I installed where stolen. Many of the cars install where still broken into, But the thieves gave up and ran away. The 4 cars that where stolen was stolen by a tow truck, person left keys in the car, forgot to turn on alarm, and one car jacking.
I am not saying your car will not be stolen but with these tips if done right will give a very good thief a VERY hard time.
1 tip: Disconnect the hood lever and hide it. When you need to open your hood just pull on the cable with your hands. Prevents a Battery attack. Wrap the cable with black tape to make it just look like another 10 gauge wire under your dash.
2 tip: Disconnect the driver side lock linkage. Your going to have
keyless entry anyways and if your battery dies or alarms acts up, just use the key on the passenger side. Prevents Slim-Jim's on driver door, and the common screwdriver under the door handle attack. Also Cuts %50 off break-ins because you only have 2 doors. Most break-ins happen on driver side door.
3 tip: When installing a Alarm NEVER use the valet switch, just wrap the valet switch around the brain.. if they found the brain they don't need the valet switch anyways. I install my alarms in Active re-arm mode, not a in passive which I hate because its such a pain in the ass when your working on your car or pumping gas.
Active re-arming means the alarm doesn't turn on itself but WILL turn back on if you dis-arm your car but DON'T open a door in 30 secs. Its for the times you accidentally hit your alarm button in your house.
4: tip: For the MR2 when installing a alarm I think the best place to put the "Brain" in a MR2 mkII turbo is above the Front air vents behind the radio, then wrap the wires in loom and run them down and thru the dash... when a car thief looks under the steering wheel to rip wires out he won't see anything but the big air vent under your kness
5: For the MR2 the hard part was placement of the siren, I run the wire on the back side of the fender after removing the weather guard in the fenderwell and then placed the siren behind the front bumper (where "The Beast" has the brake ducts) Sounds like a pain in the ass to due, but Most car thives just cut the siren wire and that shuts it up. Most shops just puts the siren in plain view under the hood or engine lid. "Where is your siren??" They just open the door, pull the hood and rip the siren out, 10 secs tops.
6: Dis-connect the truck lock linkage, I have power truck release so I just use that. Prevents truck break-ins. I have 94+ lights so I shaved both my revs lights and lock for a smoove look and saved over $120 on the lock and rev lights. I just use $20 side marker lights under my veilside bumper for rev lights.
7: A lot of times thives use this method of break-ins called Pop-in the glass out, done on the driver side mostly. Its when they stick a screw driver on top of your glass and just pry your glass out far enough to stick their hand or slim-jim in your car and hit the power lock button or lock lever over. The Glass on your car is very strong and will not break, its very easy to do on a T-Top and MR2's because we don't have a frame on top of the glass on the door. To Prevent this disconnect the lock lever on the driver side handle and wire a Relay with the starter output to shut off the power door lock switch when the alarm is armed. Test the wire that is the neg pulse given out at the switch, this is a pain in the ass to due, but this break in method is VERY common. Anyone who has locked themselves out and used a hanger to open the door knows how much the glass can flex out of the door, and most people are scared of pulling on the glass as much because its their car... car thives don't care if the glass breaks.
8: Don't EVER use those stupid Blue LED Scanners... I think the red ones are fine, but for some reason the color blue atracts thives.
Four cars (and one motorcycle) in three years and not one with a cupholder...this is the story of my life.
continued:
9: Get a Mircowave (area motion sensor) sensor, its worth the money
10: I use the Millenium FX pager from Crimestopper... $80-90 bucks range is great on this thing and it looks like a normal small pager. Best 80$ bucks i spent on the alarm
11: Install Glass Break Sensors... its a small mic that listens for the sound of broken glass... cost about 20-30 bucks.... alot of times car thives use "moon rock" to break your window ( all it is the white part of a spark plug broken into little rocks ) Anyone how have seen this thing work, knows what I mean. The glass just breaks without ANY Noise the glass even stays in place until he moves it. Or sometimes they use a metal punch and press hard onto the glass, since the glass is tempered the glass doesn't break but it cracks all up into little blocks. No noise can me heard and your standard Shock Sensor WILL NOT pick it up.
12: Make sure you have the hood pin switch and Engine lid switch installed, most shops just ignores them. Don't forget your truck pin switch.
13: Hide ALL Wires with Black Tape!! If you stick your head under your steering wheel and you see your alarm or any of its wires your should re-do your alarm.
14: Get a back-up battery installed $30 bucks max, or use a cheap 12 volt camcorder lead battery from radio shack $10 bucks if its on sale.
15: Dis-Connect your engine lid lever if you want to prevent engine parts being stolen. Just pull on the bike cable yourself if you want to open your lid.
Well I know I have more Ideas but this is about it.... These Tips will Only Help your car from being stolen but you know what they say.....
"If a theif really wants your car, they will get it" you just don't have to make it easy for him
Be smart about where you park, these tips are some questions you can ask your alarm installer to do when getting it done at a local shop.
Four cars (and one motorcycle) in three years and not one with a cupholder...this is the story of my life.
Good read, Im surprised they didnt mention the ghetto ignition switch switch. Basically you chop your ignition wire in 2 somewhere and put a simple toggle switch hidden somewhere close to the firewall, no one ever sees it.
they talked about that later in the thread, but the author believes that the ignition switch isn't that much of a detterent if found. Now, fuel cut AND ignition toggle switches might be nice. especially if they were hidden and surrounded by dummy switches all going in different directions. now that might be a pain in the but for a thief.
Four cars (and one motorcycle) in three years and not one with a cupholder...this is the story of my life.
heh, car theft isnt that much of a problem around here, but a done-up skyline will draw attention.
What I need is an awesome alarm. Must have a viewable pager, pref in color because it looks cool. Fuel and ignition cut. Shock sensors, proximity sensors and tilt sensors.
Id prefer one from a good name and one with a decent warranty. Price is not an issue. Can anyone recommend a high end one?
EDIT I'm looking at the intelliguard 750 by G5 Clifford. Reading about it at directed.com and it looks good. Manual trans remote start has "intellistart" option. (Meaning it wont start if its in gear? or it pushes in clutch?)
EDIT2: Or the Avantguard 5 by the same guys
Last edited by FyreDaug; 09-27-2005 at 12:17 PM.
those cliffords can be started and disabled via telephone back in the day, who knows what kind of crazy stuff the new ones have
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks