There are lots of options. You just need to search for DCOE-style ITBs. There are quite a few options out there. You can get them from Redline Weber, thats one I know of. You can get somewhat of a MAP signal by tapping the vacuum ports that some of these have, and running them to a common vacuum manifold. Might be good enough to run the stock computer.Originally Posted by 3rd Party
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 03-06-2009 at 08:16 PM.
Awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!
so i'd need four vacuum lines into one, into the MAP sensor?
1987 Honda Accord LX-i (A20A3) (179k)
79-whp, 103-wtq (Performance Solutions)
"...if you type, 'Google' into Google you'll break the internet..."
I'll take a picture of my vacuum setup. Each runner is tapped and run into a manifold. But my manifold feeds into a single vacuum canister from which all vacuum needs pull. I'm not sure on the ITB's, but I don't think you'd need a vacuum can, but instead just hang the MAP off the line that I would be running to the can.
I'll get the pics tomorrow morning and post them up by the end of the day.
-Mark D.
Nice i like it glad to see I'm not the only one out there making Weber manifolds lol!! I like the short intake approach might buy one and see how it compares to my super long A20 6.5" intake manifold and then to my super short 1.5" ET1 intake manifold! So now just hurry up and get those suckers bolted up! If you want some jetting advise just hit me up on email and I'll give you some ideas if you let me know what you got done to your engine and exhaust systems.
Nice. Very happy to see you had the chance to see this. Please let the guys over at PP know about this too as it's a great alternative to very pricey custom made mannys.
I fully intend to fill your inbox with tons of e-mails asking about the best specs for this build, as well as the build to come. ...and not just jetting advice, but cam, valving, bottom end build, exhaust, blah blah blah. Hopefully in the next few days I'll be carrying the motor into my basement, bolting it up to my engine stand, and getting going on assembling everything bit by faaking expensive bit. I'm shooting for the end of spring/early summer to get it in the car and running.
Edit: feel like taking a flight across the pond to help with jetting, tuning, etc?
-Mark D.
You officially suck mark... I got a deal for 2 DCOE carbd (100 bucks) so now this thread is always popping here and there telling me to buy them...
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
WHAT! 100 beans for a pair of DCOE's? ...and why aren't you jumping on those like yesterday if not sooner? Are they 40's or 45's? ...or the beloved 48 ida's? ::drool::
Shit, if you don't jump on those and they're still available when I come up there, I'm all over those like stink on poo.
-Mark D.
um you have some already? dcoe whores geesh
LOL
i don't have 48 ida's. ...that would be one monstrous setup right there. ..then I would end up just choking it down with 38mm main venturis, but it would still look schweetness. Who knows, if i were to get 'em, then you decided to take a road-trip, maybe that could be partial payment for your carb services. hehe.
-Mark D.
Aren't the IDAs downdraft? Like the ones they run on aircooled VWs?
Hey Carotman, I'll give you $200 for those DCOEs.Double your money!!!!!
DAMMIT Jeff. See what you did.
Yes, you're right. I goofed on my Weberizms. The IDA are downdraft (vertical) carbs. Let me then correct myself. ....48 DCO.
edit: Sunnovabich! Look at this shit! http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/Webe...retors_s/2.htm the CHROME 45's are the same friggin price as the normal ones. Who wouldn't go CHROME!?
Last edited by markmdz89hatch; 03-10-2009 at 12:10 PM.
-Mark D.
if they were the right price I would do IDA's , stranger fabrications have been acomplished.. may not be as effecient at wot for flow but still....getting into a stronger induction/fuel system for less than $400 is not such an unreasonable goal.
Roodoo, you know that would be badass with a couple of those bad boys' velocity stacks stiking out the hood!!!
Who is Jeff, is that Carotman?
What's the difference between the DCO and DCOE other than the size? The E must have some significance in this case, it's not electric choke like the DGEV, etc is it?
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 03-10-2009 at 04:20 PM.
re: carot=jeff? yep (at least I'm pretty sure)
dcoe v. dco? dunno honestly, but based on the below information, i'm guessing they're not die cast? i don't really know if I believe this because it's too similar to the 40 and 45. The DCO is available in 48 and 55.
Snagged from another site:
DC - doppio (double) corpo (body) i.e. twin choke
O - orizzontale (horizontal) i.e. sidedraft
E - indicates carb is die-cast
source: http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/car-t...dcoe-mean.html
Last edited by markmdz89hatch; 03-11-2009 at 05:11 AM.
-Mark D.
DCO 48 and up are bigger size they won't fit on the manny so don't buy!
The chokes you need are quite big on our engines anything slightly tuned needs at least 40mm i had mine custom turned so that i got just under 42mm to be honest didn't make much difference but going under 40mm certainly does!! And no worries with the advice be glad to help if you can find cheap enough tickets and have a nice clean room to stay in I'd consider it! lol! So howmuch are these mannys anways as mentioned wouldn't mind a short one and also could do with on for my B20A as well :O) I have adapters that can extend your manifold and convert to Jenvey taper bore ITB's now that could be interesting!
What kind of power are you shooting for and how long do you hope your engine will last for?? You can get 200bhp with reliability of upto 30k miles hard miles (not race miles) Hard road driving. Advice do up the con rod bolts to 30lbft and use loctite on them they have a habbit off vibrating loose after 30k!! But you'll probably be using ARP with aftermarket rods so don't worry too much about what i just said lol! Oh if your looking to have a set of high compression pistons made would be willing to do a group buy with you and I'll get em to do them to my specs with blank tops and 3 valve relief pockets only.
right, so as for internals, on this build, I'm planning only on working the top end, with the exception of the ARP bolts on the rods. Unless I can get a set of B rods with 20mm bushings to fit our wrist-pins on the cheap, then I'll be sticking with stock rods (for now).
I just want to get the thing going and on the street again, so not going to go too crazy right now. I'm hoping (realistically) to get 150 whp out of the p&p head milled .20 w/ stock valves, bisimoto dual intake springs, stock exhaust springs, cam, timing tweak, DCOE's (I'm going to have to get the mains cut out to 42, as the existing ones are only 36's), MSD 6AL w/ blaster coil, Nology hotwires, and haven't decided on the plugs just yet. Even with all that, 150 on a good tune might still be a stretch, but it's something to shoot for.
I'm going to put a 6500 pill in the 6al because I have no intention of spinning this thing too high right out of the gate.
I'm still trying to find a set of B18C5 oem replacement pistons for a .60 overbore (82.5mm) and thinking I MIGHT be able to get away with those with oversized rings, but that's more of a pipe-dream at the moment as it's got 4 valve reliefs cut in a stupidly high dome (they're 12:1 comp), and who really knows if the valves will seat perfectly in the factory reliefs. idk.
I'm not opposed to a small g/b for high comp pistons with a 3 valve relief pocket, or blank top. I think (for ease of using aftermarket rods) they should be cut for 21mm wrist pins so we can use any aftermarket B18 rods without the need to press in 20mm bushings. The only other issue you run into is a finding a machine shop that really knows what they're doing that is willing to cut the valve pockets and rebalance the pistons and weight match all 4.
On another side note, the local machine shop to me is capable of a 5-angle (i just found that out last week or so), so I'm psyched to get the funds together to get the real race head cut.
-Mark D.
The ones I can get for 100 are 40mm There's a 45mm kit for 150 bucks but the guy says it needs 2 gaskets. There's another cleaner 40mm kit but this one goes for 300.
So, you guys are saying I should jump on those? 40 or 45mm?
P.S. My real name is Jean-François. Most people call me Jeff or Jean.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
jump on the 45's for 150 if they're a matched set. gaskets, jets, venturis, etc can be replaced without too much pain on the pocket. Just for reference, 45's go for $400 EACH brand new. ...so yeah, a pair of 45's for 150 is a damn steal. As said, I'll take 'em when i get up there if they're still around.
40's are too small imo.
-Mark D.
-Mark D.
What is the Manifold Number from Rowland? M031 by chance?
Buttbump
don't remember. I'll post it up tonight after I get home and have a chance to check it out.
edit: pretty sure it's the M063
-Mark D.
Thanks Mark!
Let me know if I can help you Guys!
Thanks!
Buttbump
No problem Kevin. Thanks for reaching out, and I'll be in touch with you soon.
-Mark D.
Those DCOEs are a STEAL at that price!!!! Even those 40s. You could clean them up and double your money easy. Man if I came across some 45s for that price, I would buy one of those manifolds too right now.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks