hey you guys, im putting the po6 ecu into my accord, everything looks good except D9 (alternator F wht/red, alternator charging signal), A16 (alt C alternator wht/grn) and pin D10 (eld electronic load detector in put green/black).
Anybody have any info with what to do with them? Do we need to run extra wires to the alternator?
Edit: We also have to run a wire from the dizzy to pin A21 ICM ignition control module? It looks like it connects to the ignitor on an obd1 dizzy...
Last edited by AccordEpicenter; 10-09-2006 at 09:08 PM.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
your just gonna plug it into the accord ecu harness?? what car is that from :/Originally Posted by AccordEpicenter
re wired to obd1 plugs on the stock harness. Its a 95 civic DX ecu, 5 speed. Need to add 3 wires to the dizzy and the motor should run at this point. I just dont wanna have a CEL over the homo alternator
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
ok here is my project.
My goal is stay away from redrilling the key and simple bolt on. without modifying the thermostat housing.
I knew from the start that i will have to do some soldering but it shouldn't be a problem.
anyway, this is what i got so far.
After i finish the welds and make everything work, i may sell this distributor.
Alex.
oh i forgot to mention.
I found a cheaper aluminum soldering rods than alumaloy.
Alex.
where did you find the rods? are they as strong?
- llia
here are the specs for the rods. http://www.jwharris.com/images/pdf2/52.pdf
this is the main website. http://www.jwharris.com/
i spent half a day on this website learning and searching.
after that i went to welding supply.
type welco in search engine. scroll down till you see welco 52.
as far as i can see, it has the same melting point as many other products on the market, and it is strong.
Alex.
i will buy as soon as youre doneok here is my project.
My goal is stay away from redrilling the key and simple bolt on. without modifying the thermostat housing.
I knew from the start that i will have to do some soldering but it shouldn't be a problem.
anyway, this is what i got so far.
After i finish the welds and make everything work, i may sell this distributor.
I too did this but could not get the timing on because the distributor body hit the thermostat housing and the distributor still needed to be rotated more counterclockwise for the engine to stay on.
When I modified the distributor to fit my engine I actually did all the work on the car itself so I could actually see if the car turned on and where the timing was etc. That helped out alot as far as trial and error.
so even with distributor in that position, you were still way off on timing?
it is not done in the picture, it will have even more rotation side to side. I checked with thermostat housing and i have more than enough room to rotate towards thermostat housing.
Alex.
yeah
When I did it I took the lower and the thermostat legs completely off the distributor. I kept the third leg that faces toward the radiator on. I used a pair of vise grips to hold it on the cylinder head using that one tab. The distributor was rotated all the way and sat on the thermostat housing and I think I might have had like 0 degrees of timing. maybe you will have better results.
i don't understand how you could have 0deg of timing.
did you flip the key?
4G accords have 15 deg BTDC. so it should be the same when it comes to adjusting.
I haven't done anything lately, it is been cold outside.
Alex.
yeah I had fliped the key 180 degrees whe I did it. It would sputter when mounted that way and the timing was way off.
well i am going to try it and see what it does.
I have two more spare distributors sitting next to me, and i am going to get another one and OBD0 teg one.
Alex.
dang i want in on this if you can perfect it i will send you several distibutors for you to work on you can have the rest long as i get one just let me know
i was in the basement playing with other things and i cam accross this idea on how to mount this distributor. i removed the cam cap part that the distributor actually mounts to and decided to modify that to fiit the 93 accord distributor.
cut the legs off in the chop saw
then i cut the new legs that i am going to weld onto the original pice. the new legs i cut off of a cam cap cover from a d16z6 and a b18a1. but the b18a1 one was kind short so ill get another d16z6 one when i go to the junkyard
d16z6 cam cap
leg i cut off
thye parts where kinda gritty so i clean them with my bench grinder wire brusd. see the difference. the cleaness is neccessary for a good weld
i also wire brused the cam cam i have to modify to make the fit
cam cap nice and prepped for welding
this is a pic of the cam cap sitting on top of the distributor as if they where on the head. the left on is the d16z6 leg, the right is the b18a leg which i am not gonig to use, ill get another d16z6 leg. as you can see, once i weld it up it will fit pretty nice
the bottom distributor leg will be bolted on the original head hole. as you can see here it lined up perfectly. you can see where i modded the distributor case to fit around the waterneck screw
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
http://www.facebook.com/squadengineering
I guess your planning on redrilling the cam key to get the timming set right?
Nice idea SQ
- llia
the alt cables can just be splice into and run to your ecu if they dont already. You can tap into them whereever you like. For the eld sensor you might not need it. I ran a p75 without one and never had a cel while Ericw is running the same ecu and he is getting a eld cel. For the eld I just spliced into the alt wires at the fuebox under the hood and mounte it there and ran the exrta wire to the ecu. Or I used an exixting solenoid wire I cant remember.
I thought about that, but you still have to drill the key.
and it would require same amount of work if you just cut the legs off the distributor and re-weld them instead.
Alex.
yeah, i will he how this works out. ill have to re-read the thread cuz i still dont understand this redrill the key thing. i just thought it would look neater to cut and weld the cam cap. plus the angle that legs where it was easier to cut the cam cap with my chop saw
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
http://www.facebook.com/squadengineering
So is there any updates on this thread beside guaynabo89 do it to his Accord?
LX-R coming soon Here's a hint. 89mm stroke/ 41.60cc head /ARP head & main stud's /SRP piston's 81.5mm 9:5:1/Crower Rod's & more to come
ericw is up and running using crome I think.
plus if anyone has any questions between me and eric we should be able to help as far as wiring etc. the mounting is another story
I'm in the process of the swap too. The dizzy was easy in my opinion but it's the wiring and the wiring to the ECU were taking our time on.
brian what dizzy did you get?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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