Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD
either that or theres absolutely no new progress from anyone yet...
Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD
either that or theres absolutely no new progress from anyone yet...
Aren't you going to have to drill another hole in the cam key when you mount the distributor in that position?
When there was word on needing to lengthen distributor shaft, was that only if a spacer was involved? Because u could make a 2 or 3 peice adapter that goes on the other side of the distributor. With the carb'd engines I think this would b easier. Also this wiring harness,... is there a stand alone, or do you guys think a home made ECU is possible, ONLY for the cab'd people. Maby its becuase ive been up way too long reading about this. I think it might be possible with mainly relays. If the ECU was simply to run the distributor, it would need what sensors? TPS, knock sensor, TDC sensor, is that it? Assuming emmisions didnt matter. OHH cyl #1 sensor too. But the MAP, IAT, o2 sensor wuouldnt b needed right? No maby this is too involved, what do you think guys?
MAtt
I won't be able to work on my car until I get done with this semester of college.
I should be back home around May 15th, and hope to finish this project (along with my manual swap) by the end of May. I will be sure to post lots of pictures and instructions.
Wow I just read that, I think i was getting a little to involved in this last night. HAHA. But something to look into for the people that dont want to do this much work for a igntion. With the F/I stock distributor is there 1 or 2 vac lines running to it? With the carb there are 2, and the 1 only has vaccum when the car is cold. So if we ran a T peice to have vaccum on both, like the vac removal diagram, it would run more advanced.
Matt
too bad we couldn't just rig up something to rotate the cap instead off redrilling the key thing.
- llia
You could proably find a hex key headed bolt that will go in place of that stud and still give you about the same clearance instead of hacking up the nut.Originally Posted by guaynabo89
- llia
Originally Posted by A20A1
True.
But I dont have any plans of removing that piece right now and at the time it was alot easier to grind it down on one side to going and getting another bolt.
Amazingly enough the nut still tightens and loosens because I didnt wear it down into the stud.
Its a good idea to keep in mind though.
i did mine the same way and it has no probs tighting and loosening. any got a how to on wiring up the p06 ecu?
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
http://www.facebook.com/squadengineering
any word on this or is it a dead project. i have the po6 ecu, i have the wires to make the conversion harness and i have the 93 accord dizzy. just need help on the wire part to make the jumper and aire the dizzy
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
http://www.facebook.com/squadengineering
I really haven't made any progress, because my automatic transmission finally died, and I have been busy swapping in a manual. I thought the swap was going to be quick, but I keep ending up replacing things along the way... the engine mounts, water pump, oil pump, timing belt, rear and front seals, swapping to a B series radiator, new fenders, new tail lights, front and rear suspension stuff, and a bunch of other little things. I hope to be done in a week or two (I am waiting for parts to arrive).
The 1989 dealer manual has a really good pinout of the ECU. It is not in the PDFs. Here is a scan of most of it:
There was also a pinout list in the other thread, here:
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showpost.php?...&postcount=150
As soon as I get my Accord going again I will start to work on the ECU swap again.
Theres also an excel file around here somewhere with the PJ0 pin out and several other ecus.
i have the excel file, it has a bunch of ecu pinouts if you want it let me know
Style Quality Uniqueness And Design
S.Q.U.A.D. Engineering
www.squadengineering.com
http://www.facebook.com/squadengineering
I have it, I just couldn't find it again on here.Originally Posted by SQ is the SQUAD
- llia
I have many 4th gen lude and accord distributors and other parts laying around. I will play around with them and see if I have anything valid to add to this thread.
I do plan to convert to OBD1 and run a P06 w/ Uber so hopefully I can add a few things.
So far, I can say that out of the 4 CB7's I've owned and over the 10 years I've had them, NONE of the ignition modules/ignitors ever went bad. I saw it mentioned early in the thread that it is a common thing and that is just not true. They are no more likely to fail than any other Honda distributor. Sure it happens, but it is not a common thing.
Think I can reuse this bit for the conversion?
- llia
ummmm??? So i did'nt have to worry about the hassle of all the repinning i just contacted rywire(ryan is a cool guy). He made me a conversion harness for a P72 w/spoon P75 chip. Is there some other wiring issues i'm missing here??? I notice on the dizzy there is 6 wires but for the OBD-1 wire there 4. Is there 2 you don't use or are 2 spliced together.
Originally Posted by military mase
im willing to bet that the remaining 2 are for the tach if youve got an internal coil
OK, so does anyone going to make HOW TO?
I am interested in how did you make it light up with #1 cylinder at TDC since you have to flip the distributor upside down. did you have to rotate the cam key 180 deg. or what?
Alex.
I am currently working on another method of mounting the OBD1 distributor using the base of a stock distributor as an adapter. If it works I'll post some pics of it.
like what I'm doing? I wasn't sure where to cut it but I made the cut right above the well for the bearing.
- llia
I think im either going to use it where i comes apart about 2" from the bottom or less than 1\2" above that.
Here's my current progress on making an adapter out of an stock efi distributor. So far the only parts I have used are from the distributor, by the looks of it the only thing i will need to by is some steel a few nuts and bolts, and a large washer.
I cut the distributor shaft just below the hole in it, where the rotor was on the shaft for the crank angle sensor in the lower half. You can see the part for the sensors on the far left of the pic next to the vice.
I cut the rotor for the sensors(on the far left of pic above) just above the large flat piece and removed the small black piece for the sensor. I then removed a small amount from the bottom of it and then mounted on the shaft and drilled a hole threw the shaft to secure it, I used the pin i removed from the shaft to reattach the piece of the rotor assembly.
Here is what it looks like in the base of the distributor.
I will be making a plate/bracket something similar to this template i am creating out of this piece of 3 layer thick card board. The 4g distributor will mount to the plate and the plate will be held down to the stock distributor base.
The plan is to add a washer to the top of the rotor assembly and then cut the two notches into it so it will look like the end of the cam shaft and accept the key on the end distributor. I will still have to cut one leg off of the 4g distributor and another small square piece next to one of the legs.
Last edited by EricW; 09-04-2006 at 07:45 PM.
wow that is cool....later once its finish you should make a seperate thread that does not have 16 pages...and then some mods should make it a sticky...good luck with your swap....are you going to dyno after?
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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